Monday, August 15, 2011

Graceland


California?” I asked
No, too far.” She told me
Yeah... How about, Colorado?”
I think that's too far too babe.”
Well then I don't know. Where do you want to go?”
Don't know. Someplace fun.”
Graceland?”
We can't go there?”
Why not?”
Well, I don't know. We've only got a week. Can we get there and back? What would we do there for a whole week?”
Let's look at the map.”
We sat there in the dim light of my girlfriends apartment in Saint Johnsbury. The blue glow of the Tv illuminated the map that was laid out on the floor. In silence we looked at the map as if it would tell us what to do. We sat hoping that a plan for our spring break would suddenly jump off the page and take us by the hand as and lead us away.
The smokies! We could drive down and camp in the smokies for a couple nights, then drive west across Tennessee to Memphis. We can find some cheap hotel for a couple nights and then hit up Graceland!”
You seriously want to do this?”
Babe, Consider it my gift to you. I'll bring you down to visit the home of the King.”
The next week flew by and before we were prepared for the trip we were on the road. Two twenty-somethings, their tax returns, and fifteen-hundred miles of US interstate. We drove non stop for twenty six hours before we finally arrived at the Great Smokey National Park. We promptly bought a cheap $20 tent and took a nap.
It was beautiful. Sprawling valleys, Old mountains, and wildlife everywhere. We hiked to a waterfall. We rode horses. My horses name was Ted, a Percheron, he was larger and heavier than my car. He honestly scared the shit out of me. I had never in my life seen a horse as large as Ted. He loved it when I scratched his ears. I loved Ted.
It was eighty degrees that day I rode Ted through the woods of Tennessee. We went to bed that night shivering. By morning there was three inches of snow coating the ground. We both laughed as we crawled out of our tiny, cheap, soaking wet tent. We quickly packed the car and left one of the most beautiful parts of the country I had ever seen. Driving down the mountains we came across a park ranger. He was parked in the road blocking traffic.
Roads closed due to heavy snow!” He told us.
Look at my license plate. There's more than four feet of snow in my front yard back in Vermont. This small dusting isn't going to stop me.”
With a bit of hesitation he let us through.
Two hours later we were cruising down I-40. We pulled over at a rest stop to stretch our legs and find a Hotel saver booklet. It was here we ran into a woman. I never got her name. She noticed we were from Vermont.
What are you two doing way down here? Ya lost?” She asked kindly.
Nah, where on our way to Graceland.” We told her.
Well I'll be! I live right down the road from there. Follow me, I'll get ya as far as the road Graceland is on, then it's up to you from there.”
Thanks!”
We followed her and her son in their black Mercedes. At times keeping up with her was tough as southerners tend to travel very fast. Nonetheless about four hours later she waved goodbye to us at a stop light in the outskirts of Memphis. We had finally made it to Graceland. We'll, we did the next day. First we found a hotel across the Mississippi in West Memphis and got a good, warm, nights sleep. Then, we went to Graceland.
  • K. DuBreuil

Monday, August 8, 2011

The Big Easy

      I have been privileged with the ability to travel often. And while not always far or to many different places, I try to be out on the road as much as I can. None of these travels however have lead me to a place as truly amazing as New Orleans. As a Masshole and a faux Bostonian, I have a lot of pride and affection for Boston. But I humbly admit a lot of Boston Pride is Masshole arrogance. New Orleans had such spirit and culture. I was only there for about a week but in that little time it just became clear to me how strong they were. Not even in the 'We're not victims, we're survivors' mindset. They'd been hurt but nowhere near broken. The one thing I did notice was how few grocery stores there were since apparently no big chains decided to move back after Katrina. But for the party hard tourists Bourbon Street is a solid mecca of hedonism. It is a street ripe with strip clubs and bars with tacky drinks to attract tourists. For the more cultural tourist, the French Quarter has 'the real' New Orleans with music clubs, world famous Cafe Du Monde, and the French Market. But the city has so much beyond all of these places. It was at the Maple Leaf Bar, a short hike from the downtown area, that I had one of the greatest nights of my life.
     Being the music snob with ADHD that I am, I'm always looking for a new sound to get into and enjoy. It's not always new timewise but new to me. Around three years ago now I got into brass bands and swing. Rebirth Brass Band is one of the greatest I've found. They've been around since the eighties but are still kickin' it, hard. The event board at the hostel I was staying at (India House, I recommend to any NOLA bound) informed me they were playing and I gathered up my travel buddies and some of our newfound friends to see them. They delivered a great first set only slightly helped by some delicious local brews when they went on a break for twenty minutes. We stepped outside for some fresh air and a street vendor was selling steak and beef which was mediocre but well enjoyed because everything just had such a great vibe to it that night. And for dessert, we had a chocolate and cake batter snoball from a snoball truck. The young man working the truck joined us as we sat on the curb enjoying our food. Introducing himself as Gary, we started having really pleasant conversations with him and he was truly kind and interested in our stories. We would later joke that Gary was Jesus back on earth because he seemed like the most genuine guy we ever met. We had such a great time out there some of us wound up late returning back to the still awesome performance that Rebirth was delivering. After the show finished up, we returned to the street to talk with Gary some more and two older guys who ran the art gallery across the street joined us. They introduced me to 101 Runners, the Mardi Gras Indian band that is big in New Orleans and told me about the real culture of that whole scene. We spent upwards twenty minutes just hanging out as they played with their dog using toy alligators that were on some funky pizza delivery car. Then we had to use the bathroom and they let us into the gallery. This was my most pinnacle moment of the night and maybe even my life. And that is not an exaggeration. If you've seen Ferris Bueller's Day Off (as all of you should), there is a scene in a museum in Chicago where Cameron is just staring intensely at a Seurat's 'Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte' (seen here: http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/seurat/grande-jatte/seurat.grande-jatte.jpg ) as if it is speaking to his soul. That happened to me. Just outside the bathroom was this painting of vibrant colors that to me seemed like a misshapen bright orange starfish in an ocean of funky blues. I just had to stand there hardly able to comprehend how much I identified with this painting. I had my camera and was tempted to take a picture but I felt it would do an injustice to the painting and the artist. I just hope the next time I make it down to New Orleans with $2300 to spare it is still waiting for me. Or at least the buyer appreciates it half as much as I did. It was getting quite late, and we had to make our unfortunate goodbyes to some wonderful people finishing up our conversations and heading back to the hostel after such a perfected night.

Monday, August 1, 2011

Welcome (Home)!

Welcome to The Getting There. This will be a blog of travel stories from daytrips downtown to excursions across the globe. If you have a story you would like to contribute email me currently at Jfarrellmoran@gmail.com but that is subject to change depending how big this gets. This is not about places. Its about people and little epiphanies, anecdotes, adventures on the road. I hope you enjoy. This first post however, to be entirely contradicting to everything I just said, is about coming home.


I don't know how or why it even started. It began as just my imagination running wild with some small observation. But then through whatever small neuroses I have, it became constant. A mere chain link fence with a tarp over it became for me a cause of fear and mild anxiety. Every time I would pass this fence on my way home from the T (Boston's Subway system) the tarp would move with me. I joked to myself that some poor monstrous Cujo of a dog was behind there unfit to be seen by the world. But as this little movement became a constant, I got worried some dog truly was there despite the lack of noise and my peeks around the edges being fruitless. It was because of this I would pass this tiny little area with slightly more spring in my step. Then in my nineteenth year of life, I was given tickets to London as a Birthday present. I visited friends there for a week. It was not as satisfying a trip as I hoped being my first time out of the country on my own. I had a good time but having been especially groomed by my obsession with movies to believe I'd have some coming of age experience. When I returned Stateside one wintry January evening, I had to take the T home having no way to reach my parents. I got off the T and found the ground to be lightly blanketed in a freshly fallen snow. And as I passed this tarp, it stayed still. And ever since then I haven't noticed it move any. In recent years even, it has become translucent to reveal a small but well maintained garden with old stone angel bird feeder. It reminds me of a more realistic version of how Gordie felt at the end of Stand By Me. While I'd not ventured with friends to find myself and a dead body, I'd seen the world as it really is. And while this story comes across as dumb I'm sure to most who will read it (if anyone), I feel like it was some minor milestone of growing up for me and being done with all those childish fears that stick with us longer than we might like to admit.
-J. Moran